If you notice in the other flare images the flare is right on the edge of the frame. This is an example of a freelensed image. I ended up moving around a bit to get the flare positioned around the cherries. It’s just off to the right side of the image. Taken right around golden hour so the sun was low in the sky. It was taken mid-afternoon with strong sunlight. This was one of my first accidental sun flare images. I’ve seen others that make a purple, pink, and red. Side note: Not all of these lenses produce the same color sun flare. This will allow you to “move” the flare to different areas of your image. Try to freelens (if you’re comfortable doing that). Tilt your camera ever so slightly away from the sun so it can “catch” on the lens. Place the sun at the edge of your image (or partially block it with a tree, window, wall, or something).
Shoot at a higher aperture to get different shapes (example below). Tips: Shoot at a low aperture to get the circle. And, oh my goodness, if this isn’t my most favorite sun flare of all my lenses.
Helios 44 2 bokeh full#
Pretty early on, while I was trying to get all my bokeh shots, I accidentally turned my lens full on into the sun and found a sun flare. Check out these courses that will help you get creative with photography! This is an example of where I moved the subject to have the lighting I was looking for. It was mid-morning and the sun was bright on the water. This was a set up image, I picked the blue flower and placed it on some wet pavement. These little flowers are pretty small, and behind them were other flowers and grass with dew drops.
I handheld the camera and squirted the water bottle, but it would totally have been helpful to have someone else spraying or have the camera on a tripod. I added some water from my spray bottle which caused the background weeds to catch the light, and the smaller foreground bokeh dots is water spray catching the light. And this little plant was surrounded by other weeds (honestly, I’m so bad at making sure the garden is weeded, but it DOES make for some nice background every once in a while). It should toss all those light specks into beautiful circle bokeh.įor the image above, it was mid-afternoon in the summer. Then I like to place my subject with a little space from the background and focus on the subject. I like to look for backgrounds that will produce good bokeh to begin with: things like water drops, trees with light filtering through the leaves, morning dew, etc. Like I mentioned above, I was first drawn to the bokeh this lens produces. Just a reminder to be gentle on yourself and embrace the look. You can definitely have an in focus and out of focus image, but even the in-focus ones will be just a tad softer than if you were using a newer lens. One more thing to note before we get going, this is a vintage lens, and as amazing as it is, it’s not going to be super tack-sharp like the more modern lenses.
Helios 44 2 bokeh manual#
Also, because it’s manual focus, I like to use the live view on my camera with focus peaking turned on. Once I received it (about 6 weeks later, due to international shipping), I pretty much left it on for close to a month.īecause this is a manual focus lens, and a slow-to-focus one at that, I highly recommend starting out with stationary subjects: flowers, other nature items, abstract, or the like. Here are my tips, tricks and some inspiration for creating with the Helios 44-2 lens! After a few weeks of this I got curious enough to go try to find one and promptly purchased one.
Nearly every time it turned out to be this unknown-to-me lens: The Helios 44. and seeing all these absolutely amazing bokeh filled images. Way back last summer, I was scrolling my recommendations page on Instagram.
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